After 20 years of working with clients and touching their hair every day, I've heard the same questions over and over. Here are the answers to the most common hair care questions—based on what actually works, not marketing claims.
— Takamichi
Basics
Should I brush wet or dry hair?
Dry. Always brush before you wash, not after.
Wet hair is 30% weaker than dry hair. When hair gets wet, the cuticle lifts and hydrogen bonds break, making strands stretch and snap more easily. Forcing a brush through wet, tangled hair causes breakage at the weakest points.
Detangle completely before getting in the shower. If you must detangle wet hair (curly hair types especially), use a wide-tooth comb on conditioner-coated hair, working from ends to roots. Never start at the roots and pull down.
How often should I wash my hair?
It depends on your scalp, not your hair.
If your scalp is oily: Every day or every other day.
If your scalp is normal: 2-3 times per week.
If your scalp is dry: 2 times per week.
Your scalp is skin. It produces sebum, sheds cells, accumulates product buildup. Washing frequency should match your scalp's oil production, not some arbitrary rule about "overwashing."
The ends of your hair don't need shampooing—shampoo is for your scalp. The lather trickles down and that's enough to clean the lengths.
Why is my hair frizzy after washing?
Three main reasons:
1. You're rubbing it with a towel.
Roughing up wet hair with a regular cotton towel damages the lifted cuticle. The friction causes the cuticle edges to crack and lift further, creating frizz. Pat or squeeze water out gently instead. Better yet, use a microfiber towel designed for hair.
2. Your hair is dehydrated.
Frizz is often a sign hair is searching for moisture from the air. If your hair is dry or damaged, it will pull humidity from the environment and swell, causing frizz. Deep condition regularly.
3. Your scalp isn't healthy.
Scalp health directly affects hair health. A dry, irritated, or clogged scalp produces weaker hair that's more prone to frizz and breakage.
Why scalp massage matters: Massaging your scalp during shampooing stimulates blood circulation, which brings nutrients to hair follicles. Better circulation = healthier hair growth. Use a silicone scalp brush in circular motions for 2-3 minutes. It also helps remove product buildup and dead skin cells that clog follicles.
A healthy scalp grows healthy hair. An unhealthy scalp grows frizzy, weak, brittle hair.
For persistently frizzy hair: At Takamichi Hair, we offer infrared therapy deep conditioning treatments that penetrate the hair shaft with heat and moisture, repairing damage from the inside out. This is especially effective for chemically treated or very dry hair.
Do I need to use conditioner every time I shampoo?
Yes, if you shampoo.
Shampoo cleanses by lifting the cuticle and removing oils. Conditioner smooths the cuticle back down and adds moisture. Skipping conditioner means you're leaving the cuticle lifted and vulnerable.
Can I use conditioner without shampoo?
Yes. This is called "co-washing" and works well for:
Very dry hair
Curly or coily hair types
Chemically treated hair (color, bleach, keratin)
Anyone who doesn't have an oily scalp
If your scalp doesn't produce much oil or you don't use heavy styling products, you can cleanse with conditioner alone 1-2 times per week. Massage it into your scalp, let it sit, rinse thoroughly. Your scalp gets cleaned, your hair stays moisturized.
The key: Make sure you're actually massaging it into your scalp and rinsing thoroughly. Otherwise, you're just coating your hair without cleaning anything.
Technique
Should I towel dry before conditioning?
Yes. This changed everything for me.
Most people apply conditioner to soaking wet hair. The water dilutes the conditioner and prevents it from penetrating.
Instead: After shampooing, gently squeeze or pat excess water out with a towel (don't rub). Your hair should be damp, not dripping. Then apply conditioner.
On damp hair, conditioner actually penetrates the hair shaft instead of sliding off. You'll notice the difference immediately—hair feels softer, detangles easier, holds moisture better.
This is especially true for leave-in treatments and hair oils. They work on damp hair, not soaking wet hair.
How much shampoo should I actually use?
Less than you think. We always use too much.
For short to medium hair: A nickel-sized amount
For long hair: A quarter-sized amount
That's for the first wash. Use even less for the second wash.
Where to apply: Shampoo goes on your scalp, not your hair.
Your scalp is what needs cleaning—it produces oil, sheds skin cells, accumulates product. Apply shampoo directly to your scalp, massage it in with your fingertips or a scalp brush, and let the lather trickle down to the lengths as you rinse. The runoff is enough to clean the rest of your hair.
Applying shampoo to the ends of your hair strips them of moisture and causes dryness. The ends are the oldest part of your hair and already the most fragile—don't make it worse by over-shampooing them.
Double washing: Wash twice with a small amount each time instead of once with a lot. First wash removes buildup. Second wash actually cleanses.
What's the right way to dry hair with a towel?
Pat or squeeze. Never rub.
Wet hair is fragile. A regular cotton towel has a rough texture that catches on the lifted cuticle and causes friction. Rubbing creates tangles, breakage, and frizz.
Instead:
Gently squeeze water out of your hair with your hands first
Lay a towel (microfiber is best) over your hair and press or pat to absorb water
For long hair: Wrap it loosely and let the towel absorb moisture for 5-10 minutes
Never twist, wring, or rub
Microfiber towels absorb more water and create less friction than regular cotton towels. They cut drying time significantly without causing damage.
Is it bad to sleep with wet hair?
Yes. For multiple reasons.
1. Breakage: Wet hair is 30% weaker. Tossing and turning on a pillow creates friction that snaps fragile, wet strands. You wake up with breakage, especially around the hairline and at the ends.
2. Bacteria and fungus: Damp hair on a pillow creates a warm, moist environment where bacteria and fungus thrive. This can lead to scalp irritation, dandruff, and an unpleasant smell.
3. Frizz and tangles: Wet hair molds to whatever position you sleep in. You wake up with kinks, bends, and tangles that are difficult to fix without re-wetting and restyling.
If you absolutely must sleep with damp hair:
Get it at least 80% dry first
Use a silk or satin pillowcase (less friction than cotton)
Loosely braid or tie it to minimize movement
Apply a leave-in treatment or oil to add a protective layer
But really—just dry your hair before bed. Your hair and scalp will thank you.
Takamichi-Specific
Why did you develop your own hair line?
After 20 years of working with clients, I wanted to create something that actually worked without unnecessary ingredients.
Most hair care products are over-formulated. They're loaded with silicones, synthetic fragrances, and fillers that create an immediate "wow" effect but don't improve hair health long-term. Silicones coat hair to make it feel smooth temporarily, but they build up and prevent moisture from penetrating.
I wanted a shampoo and conditioner that balanced the scalp, strengthened hair, and didn't rely on temporary cosmetic fixes. Something I would actually recommend to clients, not just sell to them.
It took four years to develop. Marie was the guinea pig.
What's tsubaki oil and why use it?
Tsubaki oil is camellia seed oil—pressed from the seeds of the camellia japonica plant, which has been used in Japan for centuries.
Japanese women have used tsubaki oil on their hair and skin since the Heian period (794-1185). Geishas used it to keep their hair glossy and manageable despite heavy styling. It's been a beauty staple in Japan for over a thousand years because it works.
Why it works:
High in oleic acid (omega-9): Penetrates the hair shaft instead of just coating the surface. Most oils sit on top of hair; tsubaki absorbs into it.
Lightweight: Doesn't weigh hair down or make it greasy. Even fine hair can use it without looking oily.
Heat protective: Forms a protective barrier against heat styling and environmental damage.
Scalp health: Anti-inflammatory and soothing. Calms irritation, supports a healthy scalp environment.
Moisture retention: Helps hair hold onto moisture instead of losing it to the environment. This reduces frizz and breakage.
Tsubaki oil is why Japanese hair care focuses on nourishment from within, not just surface shine.
Is tsubaki the same as argan oil? Does it have the same virtues?
No. They're different oils with different properties.
Argan oil:
From Morocco
High in vitamin E and fatty acids
Heavier texture
Great for very dry, coarse, or damaged hair
Can weigh down fine hair
Best as a finishing oil or deep treatment
Tsubaki oil:
From Japan
High in oleic acid (omega-9)
Lightweight, absorbs quickly
Works for all hair types, including fine hair
Penetrates the hair shaft, not just the surface
Can be used daily without buildup
Both oils moisturize and protect hair, but they work differently:
Argan coats and seals
Tsubaki penetrates and nourishes from within
If you have thick, dry, or damaged hair: Argan might work better as a heavy-duty treatment.
If you have fine, normal, or oily hair: Tsubaki is better because it won't weigh hair down.
If your scalp is sensitive: Tsubaki is gentler and less likely to cause irritation.
For the Takamichi line, I chose tsubaki because it works for more hair types and doesn't require careful dosing to avoid greasiness. It's forgiving, lightweight, and effective.
How long did the Takamichi Hair Kit take to develop?
Four years.
I wanted to get it right. Most brands rush products to market in 6-12 months. I had the luxury of time because this wasn't about hitting a launch date—it was about creating something I'd actually use and recommend.
We tested dozens of formulations. Too much of one ingredient made hair feel coated. Too little of another meant it didn't cleanse thoroughly. The balance had to be perfect.
Marie tested everything. Every iteration, every tweak, every version. If it didn't work on her hair, we went back to the drawing board.
The result: A shampoo that actually cleanses and a conditioner that strengthens without weighing hair down. Tsubaki oil base, wildcrafted extracts, no fillers.
The shampoo contains ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) from coconut. I know "sulfate-free" is trendy, but I chose ALS deliberately. It lifts dirt off the hair effectively—without it, hair doesn't get truly clean. ALS from coconut is gentler than SLS and is regarded as very safe in Europe. Clean hair was more important to me than following a trend.
It took four years, but it was worth it.
Questions about hair care? Book a consultation at Takamichi Hair on the Bowery, or shop the Takamichi Hair Kit ICHI.1 at Takamichi Beauty Room.